Karyn visited Fiji after her EarthWatch mission in Hawaii. She talked fondly of Albert's Place on Kadavu opposite the Great Astrolabe Reef. What follows are selected excerpts as written in her journals... "I've got to say that Fiji is much more "me". No high rise hotels. We had a 1 and half hour boat journey to Albert's Place and the whole time we were crashing down on the waves. We got soaked from the spray and hung on for dear life the whole time!! Great!!. The island is heaven. This is paradise on Earth. The scenery is breathtaking. Rolling hills plunge down to completely deserted white beaches with lush green tropical forests and vegetation that goes on and on. Its so beautiful. No high rise hotels or resorts to mar the landscape just nature at its best as far as the eye can see." "Albert's Place is set on the beach and there are palm trees and exotic plants and trees intermingled with thatched bures. It is totally made out of bamboo with a rattan roof inside and thatched roof outside. You have to duck your head to go inside. There is a small shelf built into the wall where I have put my kerosene lamp and toilet bag and thats it. It's perfect. I am sat here and all I can hear are the waves crashing against the beach and the wind in the palm trees. There is only myself and two Americans staying. We went to the main bure (Albert's family home) and had an amazing meal of swordfish, pumpkin, spinach in coconut milk and rice washed down with Fijian beer." "Went diving this morning after breakfast. The current was quite strong and we did a drift dive. The fish were amazing. We saw some blacktip reef sharks, I wasn't scared though. Going out again in 20 mins. The 2nd dive wasn't so rough. The coral was amazing. Better than Sharm El Sheikh because of the diversity of them. All shapes, sizes and colour. Can't help but feel that Simon would love it here. I wish he were here with me. He flies to Seychelles on the day I leave Kadavu. Day 26 - "I'am on the boat going out to see the dolphins hopefully!!. Didn't think we were going to see any. Went outside into open water still no dolphins then, as we were coming back into the calmer waters they were there. I'd say maybe 15 of them. Spinners. They bow rode the boat and then we stopped. They came up close then went away. Some even did jumps. I've seen my first pod of wild dolphins. Magic!!" Day 27 - "I went out on a boat with one of the Fijians who was scuba diving to get some lunch!! Went snorkeling there too. He came back with a clam, a parrotfish, a grouper and a couple of other fish I didn't see. Went snorkeling again in the afternoon, led in the sun and relaxed. I'am now at the airport for my flight to Auckland." New Zealand Day 29 - "Went to Cape Reinga; Breathtaking scenery. Kaun Forest boardwalk then we went to the dunes at the start of 90 mile beach. Went sand boarding. Scary at the top but wicked going down. Saw a beached whale just lying there dead. Felt a bit upset after that. Went for a beer in a pub then went for fish & chips in Marangi. The whale we saw at 90 mile beach was a 22ft Sperm Whale. Steve Wainright (coordinator for Project Jonah)was with it until 3 am. Someone had already taken a tooth out. They will apparently take its jaw bone out so that on-one else gets it and bury it for five years. It is then given to the Maori". Day 31 - "The day I nearly died. We kitted up and went to the boat which was a big RIB with steel frame and a front bit that covered where the steering wheel was etc. The ride out took an eternity. The weather was quite bad and the water very rough. Got to the dive site and there was a 1 m swell. It was quite hairy at the surface but not too bad once at the Rainbow Warrior. The boat is covered in marine life of all colours. Quite impressive. The GreenPeace logo can't be seen anymore. Went up the line to the surface but the nearer to the top we were the current was worse. Had to make a decompression stop but it was difficult as the current was so bad it was hard to hold onto the rope. I actually ended going up early after only about 3 minutes. Had our packed lunch in a hut on a beach on some island. Then we started our journey back. The weather got worse the farther we went. The waves at this stage were about 4 m swells and thats when it happened. We were in the middle of a swell when a wave came right at us and filled theboat with water. It then capsized on its side and I thought "This is it!!".Luckily we didn't catch another wave and the skipper put on the bilge to get some water out. The boat righted itself and we were upright again but still full of water. What an awesome experience. Everyone was really shaken. It made me realise how lucky I was to be alive!!.Feel like having a few bevvies!! Ended up going to Twin Pines with Dan and his friends Nigel and John. They sold cider and so was alright. Went back to their room to drink tequila." Day 33 - "Decided to take it easy today walked down Queen St. Then to Victoria Park open air market. Its a bit like Camden Market. Bought some rose quartz for mum as her birthday present. Bought some yellow jasper for me. Good for spiritual and physical travel. Sat in the market havingtea and carrot cake surrounded by little brown birds eyeing up my cake!! Feel a bit nervous. They are only small though!!" Day 35 - "went on a trip to the thermal area. Absolutely amazing. Boiling mud pools, thermal craters, springs, lakes , you name it I saw it. Went to blue and green lakes." Day 37 - "Travelling from Taupo to Wellington. Mt Ruapeliu erupted last night again and the road to Palmerston North on the east of the Park is closed." Day 41 - "Woke up early this morning even though I didn't have to get up. Typical. Went on a helicopter trip. Amazing to fly up to the glacier (Franz Joseph Glacier)seeing it all its glory. We landed for a short time at the top. Got back into town and managed to get myself on a guided hike up to and on the glacier. To get there you have to walk over boulders of various sizes. Then we put on our ice boots then started up the glacier itself. Its moving at 1 m a month. Its massive when you get close. Just sheer ice!! He showed us how to get up and down and was in front of us picking out steps in the ice but at one point we were going to the side of a crevasse along and up and it was quite scary. I feel really pleased I got that far anyway. The view from the top was worth it. Coming down was easier!! Just chillin out this afternoon. Going to Queenstown tomorrow". Day 43 - "What a beautiful day. The sun is shining and the scenery awesome. Got the shuttle to Kawara Bridge to do the bungy jump. I was so nervous, got strapped up with a towel and strapping then had to shuffle to the edge. I looked down and thought I'am not ready for this. Had to wave at the camera and then 5,4,3,2,1 and that was it. I leaped forward and I was flying downwards. The actual jump itself wasn't a problem it was the looking down. Wow !! I did it. Amazing feeling. Then you're just hanging there bobbing up and down!!One girl got to the edge and couldn't do it. Another girl took three attempts and in the end had to go tandem with one of the crew! I was quite proud of myself." Visiting relatives in Tasmania Day 72 - "Arrived at 4.10 to be met by Tom and Maggie. Felt like coming home . They are lovely. Really made me feel welcome and relaxed. They have a lovely house overlooking the River Foam leading into the Bass Strait. The house is surrounded by land on all sides with flowers and an orchard with 7 sheep and 4 chickens running around. Had a lovely pasta dish with cheese , leeks and asparagus with a fruit and custard tart for afters. Slept like a baby." Day 77 - "Booked my coach ticket to Hobart at 3.30. Walked to Cataract Gorge. Did the main walk around the first Basin. Amazing scenery. What a fabulous place. Its so beautiful. Sitting in a cafe overlooking first basin having a cuppa. Lovely!! Day 79 - "Woke at 8.30 and walking around with Diedre the Irish girl in my room . Going to Salamanca Market. Walked around, seperated as I wanted to go to Battery Point. Went out with the girls from the room. Went to Syrup Blues bar. Had pizza and listened to a wicked blues singer on guitar. Went to sports bar and had wine @ $1.00. Then went to Comedy Theatre to watch a comedian. Had a really good evening". Day 80 - "Went to Mount Field NP. Got there at 10 am. Did the Russell Falls and Lady Byron Falls walk. Took about 3 1/2 hours. Saw a platypus, pademelons and a sulphur crested cockatoo. Wicked amazing forest. No one around. Had the place to myself. Wonderful day. Had a cup of tea and went back. Staying in tonight . Getting up at 4am tomorrow." Day 81 - "Arrived at Ayers Rock and the backpack was in a right mess - rips and tears. Waited for ages to see someone at desk and she was really rude saying it was my fault!! Booked Uluru tour to Olgas departing at 4.30 today. Doing the 6.55 Base Tour now instead of the climb. Feel much better about that. If it is sacred I don't feel its right that I should climb it. I think it would be a bit of a circus anyway. Had champagne watching the sunset. Quite civilised. Went to bed early." Perth, Western Australia Day 84 - "Went to botanic gardens in Kings Park. Not many flowers but certainly lots of unusual plants. Great views of city. Went to museum. Only manageed 2 floors. The aboriginal floor and the marine floor which was excellent. There was a constant song of the humpback being played and a lifesize skeleton of a blue whale in the centre of the room. Great info on coral reefs and fishes. Ran out of time. Met the English girl in my room when I got back and we went to the supermarket together. Going to the ballet with her tonight which will be nice. What a lovely performance. The ballet was wonderful, the music soothing and there was also some opera!! Great." Day 86 - "Went to train station to go to Fremantle. Went to market. I like Fremantle. Much smaller, quite, colonial and very trendy with ethic shops, wholefood cafes etc. Bought a Vince Jones CD For all Colours which is the one that was recommended to me. Walked to the front and found a small beach. Bliss. Sat there for a while and walked back to train station. Went to art gallery. Sat in the sun at the back of the hostal having a cup of tea and jam & banana on toast!!" Went out with Caroline and a couple of other girls from the hostal. Wore a dress and my black Jesus sandals. Couldn't believe it when the bouncer on the door said I couldnt go in because he didnt "like" my shoes. What a pratt. Others had gone in already. Anyway went back and changed into black daps. Couldnt believe it when I went back and he shook his head and said "NO youve got to be fu#*!ing joking havent you". Then he asked his friend the other Neanderthal and he said he liked them so I went in. How pathetic." Dolphins at Monkey Mia Day 90 - "Walked to beach which is very close and the dolphins had just come in. Only one at first. Loads of people there.Put my snorkel gear oon and swam out to the safe area allowed for swimming. 3 other snorkellers there. 2 dolphins came close and swam right by us. Went on a cruise of the bay for 2 hours on a catamaran. There were quite a few dolphins around, male & females playing and feeding. Also saw some green turtles and about 4 dugongs!! Came back for lunch and walked to the sand spit at the end of the beach. Just led there in the warm water letting the waves wash over me. Bliss!!. This is more like it." Northern Territory Day 102 - "Got up ok. Got to Kakadu and walked around Nourlangie Rock then went to Cooinda Lodge for lunch. Had a vege burger and a glass of wine - what a treat then went on the Yellow Waters Cruise. Saw 3 black red tailed cockatoos & other birds." Borneo and Sipadan Island, Malaysia Day 107 - "Got to airport and flew to Tawau. Left there at 7.30 and after a coach journey & a boat journey eventually got to Sipadan at 11am. And this is paradise. Its a small island. You can walk around it in 30 mins. Borneo Divers have the best spot on the reef right behind the cliff dive area. I'am sitting now. The water is at high tide and has covered the beach. I can see the sea inbetween the plants. Next to me is a mangrove tree and Iam watching the sunset. The huts are twin bedded with a small lockable cabinet. There is a mosquito net above the bed. I'am sat here with a Gin & Tonic and I think this is very nice indeed!!! Day 110 - "Christmas Day - party in the restaurant last night after dinner with games and singing. Felt too embarrassed to join in. Woke up in the morning to the sound of a real storm. Thought oh no typical. Had first dive at 9am with another group as no one from mine got up in time. Dive in the afternoon was brilliant. Loads of fish and good coral. Had some Christmas cake!!." Day 111 - "Had my last 3 dives today. Feel much more confident now. So pleased. Feel that I can take the advanced course now. Will probably do it in Sharm El Sheikh as it is a proper classroom facility and I know the score. Would like to dive Ras Mohamed too. I've had a lovely time. Had dinner then went on the turtle walk with the 4 English. Saw 3 turtles laying their eggs. Amazing that they drag their huge bodies up from the sea, dig a hole, deposit the eggs then cover them with sand. Very privileged to have seen it. Even saw the eggs dropping. Got back and had my log book signed. Miles said that I was a very good diver for just an open water and that I was better than some more advanced divers!! Feel pleased." Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary, Sabah, Borneo Day 113 - "Got up a t 6.30 am and packed up ready to go to the jungle camp after Sepilok. Got a lift to the junction for Sepilok and got another lift to the centre. We got there at 8 am and went to the visitors centre which was interesting. It is set in pretty much virgin forest and is quite lovely. Walked to Platform A. It was ok first of all but by 10 am there were so many people. There were about 6 orangutans in total. They are very comical looking with their really human faces. Walked the nature trail and now glad I had worn my trousers as a leech was on my boot. When we got back saw a video called "orphans of Borneo" on the rehabilitation centre which was very good. Got a lift on the back of a truck to the crossroads and then a minibus to Uncle Tans. Had dinner and then went on the bus to the Kinabatangan Bridge crossing. Struggled with my backpack and went down to the river. Went on a small wooden boat along the river which was lovely. Saw Proboscis monkeys and Macaque monkeys. Arrived at the camp. It is very basic and has a long table in front with huts which are open to the night and have a thick mattress to sleep on. Wish my torch worked as the loo is quite a way away from the huts. Climbing Mount Kinabalu (~13,400ft) Day 115 - "Eventually arrived at Park HQ (Kinabalu National Park) at about 3.30 om. Checked in and made my way to the hostel. Found out that most peopel staying there are climbing tomorrow the day I wanted to and they booked later than me. Feel really annoyed. I have another 2 days until I can climb. I'am so nervous. I'am going to be a nervous wreck by the time comes to do it. Theres obviously a reason why I have to stay here for 3 nights although it isn't clear to me yet. Maybe it is to get some rest and sleep before I do it and apparently the weather hasn't been very good so perhaps by the time I do it it may have cleared. I feel like crying all the time. I'am going to have to be positive to climb it that's for sure." Day 117 - "New Years Day" Packed everything up and went to the office at 7 am. Joined a group of Swedes and we all went up. It took 5 hours to get to Laban Rata. What a hike!! It went on and on, up and up. I was very proud of myself at the end that I had done it. It was hard and I wasn't prepared for it. Day 118 - "Got up at 2 am and left at 3 am for the 3 hour climb up to the summit. It was pitch black and went on and on for eternity. It was so steep in places you just cling to the rope for dear life. Nothing prepared me for this. I never want to ever do it again. It was such a relief to get to the top. Felt like crying. Took 3 hours up and 2 hours down. Had breakfast and then left at 9.30 for the trek down. I have never been so wet in all my life. I was wet, cold and so tired I could hardly put my feet infront of each other. It took about 4 1/2 hours to get down and I was insane when I refused to pay MR 10 for the bus to HQ and ended up walking the 4 km. All the clothes inside my pack were so wet too and I had to go to the laundry to get them dry.